Cruises are operating all year round across the world’s seas, oceans and rivers and there are endless options for all seasons and destinations, even in winter. We landed in the Arctic recently taking a sensational cruise voyage to some of the far reaches of northern Norway.
In our last post, we shared highlights from the northbound leg of our winter voyage with Havila Voyages, travelling up Norway’s breathtaking coastline aboard one of their modern, environmentally conscious ships. Now, we pick up the journey where we left off—this time heading south toward Trondheim.
Havila Voyages offers a variety of ways to explore the Norwegian coast, whether you opt for the full 12-day round trip from Bergen or choose a shorter segment such as the Voyage North or Voyage South. On this trip we joined an 8-day return voyage from Trondheim, during the winter season, on this iconic and historic trade route. We were very impressed with the complete experience and the amount of activities we could weave into the trip to get insight into the local culture, get close to the land and absorb the immense, pristine environment.
In this post, we focus on the south bound section of the Havila Voyages journey: the return trip from Kirkenes to Trondheim. With new ports, changing light, and a window into Norway’s coastal life, and this part of the voyage revealed more of the breathtaking Arctic landscape and many exciting adventures along the way.
DAY 6 – Mehamn, Hammerfest and Tromso
Travelling south we sail to Mehamn arriving late, affectively the middle of the night, just after midnight and a handful of brave (or crazy) souls disembark for an adventurous excursion into the dark night. We are taking a polar night snow mobile tour, potentially under the northern lights. We get geared up – waterproof overalls and jacket, helmets, gloves, then we are given a safety briefing and we are ready to motor into the snowy night. We follow along single file for an hour or so enjoying the crisp, still night. Sadly, the skies were too cloudy for the northern lights but the ride was extremely fun and unlocked a new skill. Returning back to the ship it was straight to bed for a good, warm sleep.
By the morning we had arrived in Hammerfest, the world’s northernmost city positioned a curved bay, surrounded by stark, barren Arctic moorland and mountains. It was snowing heavily when the ship docked so I missed the scenery. The city dates back as a centre for Arctic hunting and fishing to 1789, and today Hammerfest is a modern centre of gas exports, fishing and tourism. There was time to walk around the city and see some of the downtown area. Back to the ship to sail on to Tromso. Arriving in the spectacular port of Tromso just before midnight there was time to welcome the New Year with a glass of champagne and a sensational show of fireworks and even the northern lights made an appearance. It was then a short walk to the near by cathedral to join a midnight music concert which featured hymns, folk tunes, traditional Norwegian music, ballads, and indigenous Sami cultural tunes. Simply beautiful!
DAY 7 – Harstad , Sortland Stokmarknes and Svolvaer
It was a short night after the new year festivities and we sailed through the night and anchored in Harstad for an early breakfast at the daily buffet and then disembarked for an amazing bus excursion to explore the regions coastal arctic towns and historic sites beginning with Trondenes Church for a guided tour and also the nearby Historical Centre. Continuing by bus with the odd photo stop, we spot a moose and a number of reindeer in the rural fields. We board a ferry and glide across a stunning fjord in the snow enjoying the on board snacks of waffles and local “lefse” – a traditional soft Norwegian flatbread with a warm cup of tea. After a stunning morning tour we rejoined the ship in Sortland. The voyage then continued south to Svolvaer with glowing afternoon light. The next stop was Stokmarknes, the home of the Hurtigruten Museum, which celebrates the history of the coast and trades, its characters, tradition and brave seamen who ventured into the elements to service communities along the coastal route. This stop allows enough time for passengers to visit the museum which has a small entry fee, there is also time to explore the quaint town.
Continuing on to the next port the compact village of Svolvaer, the capital of the Lofoten Islands, a region famous for fishing. The ship docks right in the centre of town where guests can disembark and walk in the town centre. There are gift stores, bars, restaurants and convenience shops to spend your Norwegian Kroner. Returning to the ship it was time for dinner in the a la carte restaurant choosing from a selection of delicious dishes, before relaxing in the lounge awaiting an appearance of the northern lights.
Day 8- Sandnessjoen and Bronnoysund
Today was a slower day with no excursions booked we were just taking in the last day on the ship and making sure I take advantage of all the onboard services. A sauna was high on the list to sit in the warmth and chat with fellow passengers about their voyage. We arrived in Sandnessjoen, where you may be lucky to catch a glimpse of the “Seven Sisters” mountain range, where the seven mountain peaks are lined up like dominos create in the ice age. There was a chance to explore the town as the stop lasted half an hour and we enjoyed some of the street art and historic buildings. After the stop is was time for a lovely lazy lunch enjoying all the local dishes from the regional menu. The final stop of the day was Bronnoysund, we stumbled upon a dockside bar and enjoyed a drink with the locals and a wander around the marina. Back on board for the last evening of the cruise and the last chance to see the Northern Lights – sadly the weather had other ideas and it was quite a rough night on the water.
Day 9 – Trondheim
Cruising southward overnight we arrive in the early morning into the Trondheim Port in time for an early breakfast service. After thanking all the staff for their exceptional service and bidding them a fond farewell it was time to depart. Guests must vacate their rooms and shortly thereafter the ship. There are no transport services readily available at the port so it is important to book you taxi, shuttle or ride share in advance. Reception will assist with getting transport on the day but there are limited services and the wait can be long so we would highly recommend booking in advance. It is worth a stay in Trondheim there are some historic sites to visit and plenty of local cuisines to enjoy.
There are a few things we learned on our trip with Havila Voyages that you should consider when cruising in the Arctic:
- Book a cruise ship cabin with a window. It’s great to monitor the Northern Lights and the weather for stops and just nice to see out.
- Download on of the many phone apps to monitor the activity levels of the Northern Lights.
- Book your Havila Voyages excursions in advance to secure your place and avoid disappointment.
- Be aware that the Northern Lights can be a long wait very late into the night, maybe take an afternoon nap if needed so you can keep awake.
- Register for the on-board, in-room Northern Light announcements so you don’t miss a sighting.
- Take advantage of all the port stops while cruising. Depending on length of the stop you can walk onto the pier or explore the village it can be a spectacular view and a chance to shop locally.
- Wait for the crowd to fade at the view point at the North Cape by going into the museum and visitor centre first. You will be more likely to take pictures free from the crowd.
- Walk the viewing decks on the ship first thing in the morning for some tranquil moments, beautiful light and incredible views.
What an adventure it was cruising the Norwegian coast with Havila Voyages, it was a trip of unique experiences and mind-blowing memorable scenery in one on the world’s remotest coastal trade routes. We have shared the entire voyage in two parts so if you missed part 1 the northbound leg jump back in and read it here.
If you have any questions or comments about the voyage we would love to hear from you so please leave a comment below or connect with us on social media @possandruby on Instagram and Facebook.
Note: We were a guest of Havila Voyages for this trip.
