Norway Archives - The Adventures of Poss & Ruby

Cruises are operating all year round across the world’s seas, oceans and rivers and there are endless options for all seasons and destinations, even in winter. We landed in the Arctic recently taking a sensational cruise voyage to some of the far reaches of northern Norway.

In our last post, we shared highlights from the northbound leg of our winter voyage with Havila Voyages, travelling up Norway’s breathtaking coastline aboard one of their modern, environmentally conscious ships. Now, we pick up the journey where we left off—this time heading south toward Trondheim.

Havila Voyages offers a variety of ways to explore the Norwegian coast, whether you opt for the full 12-day round trip from Bergen or choose a shorter segment such as the Voyage North or Voyage South. On this trip we joined an 8-day return voyage from Trondheim, during the winter season, on this iconic and historic trade route. We were very impressed with the complete experience and the amount of activities we could weave into the trip to get insight into the local culture, get close to the land and absorb the immense, pristine environment.

In this post, we focus on the south bound section of the Havila Voyages journey: the return trip from Kirkenes to Trondheim. With new ports, changing light, and a window into Norway’s coastal life, and this part of the voyage revealed more of the breathtaking Arctic landscape and many exciting adventures along the way.

DAY 6 – Mehamn, Hammerfest and Tromso

Travelling south we sail to Mehamn arriving late, affectively the middle of the night, just after midnight and a handful of brave (or crazy) souls disembark for an adventurous excursion into the dark night. We are taking a polar night snow mobile tour, potentially under the northern lights. We get geared up – waterproof overalls and jacket, helmets, gloves, then we are given a safety briefing and we are ready to motor into the snowy night. We follow along single file for an hour or so enjoying the crisp, still night. Sadly, the skies were too cloudy for the northern lights but the ride was extremely fun and unlocked a new skill. Returning back to the ship it was straight to bed for a good, warm sleep.

By the morning we had arrived in Hammerfest, the world’s northernmost city positioned a curved bay, surrounded by stark, barren Arctic moorland and mountains. It was snowing heavily when the ship docked so I missed the scenery. The city dates back as a centre for Arctic hunting and fishing to 1789, and today Hammerfest is a modern centre of gas exports, fishing and tourism. There was time to walk around the city and see some of the downtown area. Back to the ship to sail on to Tromso. Arriving in the spectacular port of Tromso just before midnight there was time to welcome the New Year with a glass of champagne and a sensational show of fireworks and even the northern lights made an appearance. It was then a short walk to the near by cathedral to join a midnight music concert which featured hymns, folk tunes, traditional Norwegian music, ballads, and indigenous Sami cultural tunes. Simply beautiful!

DAY 7 – Harstad , Sortland Stokmarknes and Svolvaer

It was a short night after the new year festivities and we sailed through the night and anchored in Harstad for an early breakfast at the daily buffet and then disembarked for an amazing bus excursion to explore the regions coastal arctic towns and historic sites beginning with Trondenes Church for a guided tour and also the nearby Historical Centre. Continuing by bus with the odd photo stop, we spot a moose and a number of reindeer in the rural fields. We board a ferry and glide across a stunning fjord in the snow enjoying the on board snacks of waffles and local “lefse” – a traditional soft Norwegian flatbread with a warm cup of tea. After a stunning morning tour we rejoined the ship in Sortland. The voyage then continued south to Svolvaer with glowing afternoon light. The next stop was Stokmarknes, the home of the Hurtigruten Museum, which celebrates the history of the coast and trades, its characters, tradition and brave seamen who ventured into the elements to service communities along the coastal route. This stop allows enough time for passengers to visit the museum which has a small entry fee, there is also time to explore the quaint town.

Continuing on to the next port the compact village of Svolvaer, the capital of the Lofoten Islands, a region famous for fishing. The ship docks right in the centre of town where guests can disembark and walk in the town centre. There are gift stores, bars, restaurants and convenience shops to spend your Norwegian Kroner. Returning to the ship it was time for dinner in the a la carte restaurant choosing from a selection of delicious dishes, before relaxing in the lounge awaiting an appearance of the northern lights.

Day 8- Sandnessjoen and Bronnoysund

Today was a slower day with no excursions booked we were just taking in the last day on the ship and making sure I take advantage of all the onboard services. A sauna was high on the list to sit in the warmth and chat with fellow passengers about their voyage. We arrived in Sandnessjoen, where you may be lucky to catch a glimpse of the “Seven Sisters” mountain range, where the seven mountain peaks are lined up like dominos create in the ice age. There was a chance to explore the town as the stop lasted half an hour and we enjoyed some of the street art and historic buildings. After the stop is was time for a lovely lazy lunch enjoying all the local dishes from the regional menu. The final stop of the day was Bronnoysund, we stumbled upon a dockside bar and enjoyed a drink with the locals and a wander around the marina. Back on board for the last evening of the cruise and the last chance to see the Northern Lights – sadly the weather had other ideas and it was quite a rough night on the water.

Day 9 – Trondheim

Cruising southward overnight we arrive in the early morning into the Trondheim Port in time for an early breakfast service. After thanking all the staff for their exceptional service and bidding them a fond farewell it was time to depart. Guests must vacate their rooms and shortly thereafter the ship. There are no transport services readily available at the port so it is important to book you taxi, shuttle or ride share in advance. Reception will assist with getting transport on the day but there are limited services and the wait can be long so we would highly recommend booking in advance. It is worth a stay in Trondheim there are some historic sites to visit and plenty of local cuisines to enjoy.

There are a few things we learned on our trip with Havila Voyages that you should consider when cruising in the Arctic:

Book a cruise ship cabin with a window. It’s great to monitor the Northern Lights and the weather for stops and just nice to see out.
Download on of the many phone apps to monitor the activity levels of the Northern Lights.
Book your Havila Voyages excursions in advance to secure your place and avoid disappointment.
Be aware that the Northern Lights can be a long wait very late into the night, maybe take an afternoon nap if needed so you can keep awake.
Register for the on-board, in-room Northern Light announcements so you don’t miss a sighting.
Take advantage of all the port stops while cruising. Depending on length of the stop you can walk onto the pier or explore the village it can be a spectacular view and a chance to shop locally.
Wait for the crowd to fade at the view point at the North Cape by going into the museum and visitor centre first. You will be more likely to take pictures free from the crowd.
Walk the viewing decks on the ship first thing in the morning for some tranquil moments, beautiful light and incredible views.

What an adventure it was cruising the Norwegian coast with Havila Voyages, it was a trip of unique experiences and mind-blowing memorable scenery in one on the world’s remotest coastal trade routes. We have shared the entire voyage in two parts so if you missed part 1 the northbound leg jump back in and read it here.

If you have any questions or comments about the voyage we would love to hear from you so please leave a comment below or connect with us on social media @possandruby on Instagram and Facebook.

Note: We were a guest of Havila Voyages for this trip.

When you think of cruising you often think of sunshine and poolside cocktails but in the era of cruise travel there are so many options for different destinations and experiences all over the world. Havila Voyages, are a world leading sustainable cruise line traversing the Norwegian coastline from Bergen, visiting 38 ports north and south bound.

Travelling by ship along the Norwegian coast allows you to reach some of the most remote locations and see some of the most pristine landscapes in the world. With Havila Voyages passengers can choose to undertake the entire round voyage from Bergen (12 days) or can select from a range of alternate options, Voyage North, Voyage South or short 2-5 days voyages in either direction. The ship docks in some ports during the day, and passengers can disembark for a few hours to experience the city on an organised excursion or independently. In other ports there is only a short stop with limited time to walk on the dock, and we sail past a number of ports at night while you are sleeping.

We joined the 8-day Trondheim return voyage in the winter season and here is how it went.

NORTHBOUND

DAY 1 – Trondheim

Checking in for the Havilia Voyages cruise begins early in the morning so it was useful to stay overnight prior to departure. I have an extremely comfortable stay at the Hotel Brittania, the oldest hotel in the city. The Britannia, operating since 1870, has 224 rooms offering a 5-star experience. The breakfast buffet is the most expansive, elegant breakfast one can imagine. The Trondheim Port is just a convenient short taxi from the hotel. The check in process is quick and my guest lanyard was granted which is needed to get on and off the ship – do not lose it!

Entering my Seaview Superior cabin there is efficient use of space – a large wardrobe, comfortable double bed, a sofa banquette sitting area by the sizeable sea view window, a desk, tea and coffee facilities, TV and ensuite bathroom with shower, sink, toilet and plenty of hanging space.

On the ship, the Havila Polaris, there are 6 decks accessible to voyage passengers, deck 4 and 5 are the majority of the guest cabins, deck 6 is the place for nourishment all the restaurants are here, Hildring (fine dining), Havrand Restaurant (a la carte) and Havly Café. On this floor there is also the gift shop, conference centre and open air bow view point. Deck 7 and 8 has more guest suites and also outdoor viewing decks and the sauna and jacuzzi. Deck 9 is the top deck and home to the Havblikk Bar and Lounge with the spectacular panorama viewing deck. There is plenty of seating spaces dotted around the ship with amazing views to enjoy throughout the voyage. After settling into the cabin it was perfect timing to make my way to the top and deck as we set sail and bid farewell to Trondheim.

Dinner is served in the al la carte Havrand Restaurant (dining is included on most packages) and as we sail north into the evening I settle into the cabin, while the gentle movement of the sea rocks me to sleep.

DAY 2 – Ornes, Bodo, Stamsund

Just in time for breakfast we officially crossed into the Arctic Circle in the morning darkness and the ship’s captain uses the search lights to illuminate the monument that sits at a latitude of approximately 66° 33′ north of the equator.

After breakfast we stop at Ornes, a beautiful city on the coast. No time to disembark here just a transit stop to drop off and pick up passengers and cargo. We set sail again and the Norse god of the North Sea, Nord, welcomes us to the Artic region. The ships crew baptised any willing passengers with some icy arctic water down the back of the neck. The deck bar was open for a chance to toast the arrival into the Arctic. The majority of the day was spent exploring the decks, a stop in the town of Bodo with time to take a walk (albeit very wet and windy) and delicious three course lunch. The excursion of the day was an evening Feast with the Vikings in Stamsund, where passengers enjoy a traditional meal in a viking hall complete with music, singing and plenty of mead. Returning to the ship by bus in time for a night cap at the bar and the nightly wait to see if the northern lights appear.

DAY 3 – Tromso

Wild and rugged wintery scenery filled the day along with the showing of a documentary in the conference room about the phenomena that is the northern lights, which we were hoping to see along our voyage. There were a few short stops, and guests are welcome to wander the dock at these transit stops. The main stop on today’s itinerary is Tromso, the arctic capital and largest city of Northern Norway with almost 80,000 residents.

My most anticipated excursion was just a bus ride away from Tromso Harbour, the opportunity to visit the local indigenous people, the Sami, and learn about their culture and meet their reindeer herd. The experience began in the traditional lavvu, a tent like home with an informative introduction to Sami life and discussion all about the reindeer. Then it was time to meet the reindeer. The antlers are a tangled pointy hazard but the animals are so gentle and sweet. After feeding the hungry reindeers and snapping some photos we took a short sleigh ride around the farm. There was no sign of Santa but it was a special experience to glide along the snow and ice under the steam of the strong reindeer. After the ride it was inside to warm up with hot chocolate, reindeer stew (eek!) and home baked cookies. We headed back into the lavvu to learn a little about the Sami language and modern life. It was time to head back to the ship and continue sailing north. Tonight was the first glimpse at the breathtaking northern lights which appeared mid dinner service. The view from the front deck was spectacular – the dancing green and red light among the clouds. What a wonderful highlight and according to the ship staff this was just the warm up act.

DAY 4 – Honningsvag

After a hearty buffet breakfast of eggs, cold cuts, pastries, fruit and tea it was time to hit the outdoor decks on a crisp, clear day. The most spectacular day of scenic sailing as we head toward Nordkapp (North Cape) the most northerly point in Europe. Taking the excursion bus from the ship was a picturesque ride across the northern cape plateau with icy lakes and snow drifts. Upon arrival, while there is still some light, passengers make a b-line toward the lookout and monument that indicates the most northern point of Europe. The 307-metre-high cliff, steeply sloping directly down into the Barents Sea, has for centuries been a point of reference for seafarers. There is a large visitor centre, café and gift store on site – a warm escape from the bitter wind of the lookout.

Returning back to the ship a complimentary refreshment was waiting in the warmth of the bar – traditional fish soup and delicious apple cake. The afternoon of sailing was a little bumpy and the perfect time for some downtime contributing to the communal ship jigsaw puzzle. A special treat for dinner tonight a King Crab Banquet in Hildring Fine Dining Restaurant. The King Crab is found along Norway’s coast and is available all year round. The white crab meat is sweet in taste and can be served hot and cold and added into numerous dishes.

DAY 5 – Kirkenes, Mehamn

We continued to travel further north to the small town of Kirkenes, positioned extremely close to the Finnish and Russian borders. An exciting excursion on the itinerary today, dog sledding in the snow and a visit to the snow hotel. As we arrived in the port it was snowing, really snowing, which was beautiful we took the short bus ride to the Snow Hotel and could hear the excited sled dogs waiting for us. Two-by-two people were loaded onto the dog sled with the sled guide and the excited pups barked and jumped ready to set off. The dogs attentatively followed the simple instructions from the sled guide and we wooshed through the snowy landscape. It was quite a smooth ride and took about 20 minutes. We returned back to the kennels welcomed by a chorus of howls from the dogs whose turn it was next. After the sled ride we headed inside for a hot wine by the fire and then it was time to head back to the ship.

An excellent dinner in the Havrand Restaurant this evening and the day was not over there was one more excursion for the day. A late-night snow mobile tour under the northern sky it was off to the cabin for a nap before the next adventure took place.

This was the complete northbound leg of the voyage already so much adventure only in the first 5 days. There is so much more to come, to follow on for the rest of the adventure on the southbound voyage see part 2.

If you have questions of comments regarding arctic cruising we would love to hear from you, leave your comments below or join us on social media @possandruby on Instagram and Facebook.

Note: We were hosted by Havila Voyages on the this Arctic Cruise.

Norway

A guide to winter cruising in the Arctic – Part 2

A guide to winter cruising in the Arctic – Part 1